Tuesday, 31 March 2015

Fitting & tension issues

Well, I hate zips!!

I've had no end of trouble inserting an invisible zip, I finally got it on the third attempt. I managed to do it fine the first time except that it wasn't lying flush with the bodice and it was altering the fit, so I redid it. I also added the facings as I hadn't bothered initially.

On the second attempt I managed to sew one side of the zip the wrong way round! Right side to wrong side... then spent ages wondering why I couldn't do it up! Finally inserted it correctly on the third attempt, it's still not perfect but it's a lot better than it was!


I'm still having problems with the fit of the shoulders, I'm just not sure if taking it in at the seams will make it lie flat or shorten the bodice too much. I also had problems with getting the facing of the neckline to fit properly, pinning it flat to the neckline ended up shortening the overall thing by an inch and a half so my shoulder seams aren't matched and don't meet at the back of the bodice.

Having finally sorted out my tension problems this zip completely screwed things up and I've not been able to fix it since. These are the loops on the underside of my stitches, which I believe means that the top tension is incorrect. I just can't seem to win, I've tried all of the tension settings for the top needle now and nothing has worked.

Top tension set to 8.

Top tension set to 2.

If anyone has some advice I'd be very grateful!

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